As you’re reading this, I guess you’ve heard here or there than eventually, it could be possible, with some luck, to power a car with water. You are a part of the minority ( not for long ) on the planet that have had some informations about it.
My goal is to help you definatly realize that it’s only reality. Specially if you live in the US, you may be just ignore that thousands of your fellow citizens are “burning” water in a HHO Cell each and every day !
They are no more wondering if it’s possible or not, they just do it !
They use water to increase mileage 20% – 60% with a 1,2,3 simple system , easy to plug in and costless.
Yep, you really have seen “thousands of your fellow citizens” & “20% to 60%”
Let me explain… we only use 20% of the gas we put into our car’s gas tank. If you don’t believe me search it on GOOGLE or something. 80% of the gas that is put into our tanks is turned into pollution (unused gas).
It’s like burning banknotes……
Running your car on both water and gasoline greatly increases the combustion efficiency of the vehicle and allows its fuel to be burned more completely; which results in cleaner emissions, greater fuel economy, and increased performance.
It turns out that once you convert, you end up using 30% – 60% more gasoline to actually move your car, than you did before.
Now, how does it work ?
Paradoxically, it’s a 200 years old story….. Have you ever eard about electrolysis ? Yep, it’s that simple !
A Hydrogen fuel cell or HHO Cell (also known as a HHO generator or electrolyzer) functions by splitting water into individual Oxygen and Hydrogen atoms. Two Hydrogen atoms and one Oxygen atom are produced from each molecule of water through the process known as electrolysis : Hydrogen, Hydrogen, Oxygen, capito ?
This process begins once electrical current is applied to the HHO cell, which is filled with a mixture of pure distilled water and an electrolyte, that is very often Baking Soda and for more advanced HHO Cell systems and users Sodium Hydroxide-NaOH or Potassium Hydroxide-KOH.
This combustible gas ( HHO ) is then drawn into the engine through the vehicle’s intake and burned in the cylinders in combination with the atomized gasoline (or diesel) + air, which is already being injected into the combustion chambers.
Here is the typical implementation of an HHO Cell :
Well, I know what some of you are thinking now :
Electrolysis is not profitable !!!…….
And you’re 100% right guys ! ( girls ? )
Producing HHO will cost more energy than burning HHO will restitute…. So why is it profitable anyway to burn HHO in your engine ?
It’s very simple : just don’t imagine that you will replace a part of your gasoline or diesel with HHO, because
This idea is 100% wrong !
We just need some HHO to be there to OPTIMIZE your air+gasoline mix, and there is no need for the electrolysis process to be profitable !
Can you feel the difference boys and girls ?
Now, imagine filling up your gas tank. Look at the price, now cut that in half. It’s not that bad of an investment!
I might say. Your car’s engine temperature is also a lot cooler, which gives it a longer life span.
These conversions are also reversible, you don’t have to hack off anything on your cars engine, or body in order for this to work. If you are leasing a vehicle, you can simply convert your car to run on both water and gas, and then take the conversion off once you turn the vehicle in.
So here you are ! This site is borned a few days ago, we will improve it day by day, and if you are already HHO users or not, you’ll find every thing you need to know to run a HHO Car. Explore this site, explore others, and make a decision !
The purpose of this system is encouraging the wide spread use of alternative fuels. Hydrogen plays an important role in abundant, safe energy for each of us, and the world at large.
This article talks about how to & why connect in parallel 2 or more HHO Cells that use plates as electrodes. Most known type is Dry Cell, but any kind of unit using more than 2 plates as electrodes can be connected in parallel.
Well, you generally will have to connect plates HHO cells in parallel because :
1 : the configuration of the plates is dividing voltage by the number of gaps the current have to “pass” through between a + connected plate and a – connected plate.
2 : Inside a HHO Cell, electrolysis will become significant at a little more than 2 volts, let say 2.5 volt.
There is a lot of litterature about electrolysis, you will read here or there that 1.8V or 1.6V or even less ( theorically 1.24 v ) is required for electrolysis to occur. Well, that may be true in very specific conditions, but practically, the cars HHO cell designs need more than 2 volts to give significant results. I’ve been testing a lot of HHO units & I’ve seen that 2,3,4,5 intervals are ok, but 6 is too much for a 12 volts system.
So if your cells are counting more than 2 intervals each,( that’s 3), when connecting them in series you will get 6 intervals that will divide by 6 your 12 volts battery power. In fact you get 13.5 volts when driving. So 13.5:6 = 2.25 volt. This is a very optimistic schem untill HHO cells very often count 4 or 5 intervals between + & – plates….
That’s why the parallel connection is required for dry cells or other plates designs. You simply have to wire + on + & – on – ! It’s a kid game….
However, when choosing or building a hho cell, the closer you are to 2 volts per gap, the less heat you will product. Regarding this, the +nnnn- config. seems great. You can try the +nnnnn- config. if supplied voltage is 13volt or a little more. Before deciding this test the voltage on your car when engine is running at 2-3000 rpm.
Also remember that when adding a second cell, connected in parallel, to your system, you theorically will double the amps drawing. Think of it before running the system and may be change your electrolytic bath to reach a twice lower electrolyte concentration. Other way you may burn fuses, damage your installation, or simply draw too much amps and reduce your mileage gain.
All right ? Just go ahead & be carefull on the road !
Are you asking yourself the kind of questions below?
Are winter’s negative temperatures a problem for my HHO cell ?
Is it a problem if water freezes in my dry cell or in the tank ?
Will my HHO cell still be active when the water inside is frozen?
Is it dangerous to get going with my HHO car when the HHO Cell is frozen ?
These kind of question are asked more and more often, especially when the winter is coming. Well, I will tell you something. YES IT IS DISTURBING when the water freeze in the generator, tank or pipes but I will also say that YES THERE’S A WAY TO PROTECT YOUR INSTALL from frost.
Frost can of course damage your installation : when the water freezes it takes more place and it can move or even break some parts of your installation and causes leak. At least it can stop HHO flux in some places, ie., frozen water in the bubbler or frozen condensation in a low part of a pipe.
I WILL GIVE YOU NOW THE SOLUTION but you have to promise me that you will read the rest of this article anyway! Because you have to it the right way !
Radical solution against freezing temps:
You have to mix certain quantity of alcohol in your electrolyte bath.
YOU HAVE TO DO IT WITH THE APPROPRIATE ALCOHOL AND IN THE APPROPRIATE WAY!!!!!
If you use other alcohol and / or other electrolyte, electrolyte bath (water +electrolyte + alcohol) will become black after a few minutes of being activate and a black crust will deposit on the electrodes of the generator and finally that will stop electrolysis!!! Then you will have a lot of cleaning to do….It’s not so bothering if you have a jar type HHO cell (the famous Mason Jar), but if you have a dry cell…. well, you’re in trouble guys…Trust me I have been there…!
Of course it is not always easy to find pure isopropylic alcohol regarding on the country youy live…..It would be too beautiful to be true, don’t you think so?
You might find it in the pharmacy but it could be very expensive and it is not sure that your pharmacist will sell it to you.
Hopefully there are great places where we can find isopropyl alcohol (IPA, Isopropanol or rubbing alcohol ) in different degrees of purity : 50%,70%,91% and 99,++%.You have to choose at least 91%. My advice is to take 99% and +
You can simply put isopropyl alcohol in your tank and leave it for at least 30 min before activating your generator. It is really necessary to wait!! I am not a chemist but I know what is going to happen if you act too fast….Electrolytic bath will become black etc…(trust me, I know what I am talking about).
20 to 25% of isopropyl alcohol protects up to -15°C. You can add 40 -50% of alcohol if the climate in your area requires that. Next you will have to settle again concentration of electrolyte bath. Isopropyl alcohol disturbs electrolysis, so you will have to add sodium hydroxide to find back amperage which existed before adding alcohol. To add hydroxide you will have to mix it in small quantity of distilled water until dissolution complete, next put it into the tank……..and leave it for at least 30 min before activating your generator …if not …etc, etc….
If you aren’t using pure hydroxide de sodium yet:
You have to drain your system and rinse with distilled water. Then you have to mix in a glass container (and not directly in the tank) the quantity of distilled water & isopropylic alcohol you’ll need to fill your system ( remember only that kind of alcohol can be used ).
20 – 25% of isopropyl alcohol protects up to –15° C.
You can add 40-50 % of alcohol if the climate in your region requires that. Next you have to add sodium hydroxide.Don’t be surprised, it will be much more than previously without alcohol. IPA ( isopropylic alcohol is disturbing electrolysis ) Then you have to mix it until dilution completes. Leave it without a cover for at least 30 min and after that time pour it all into the tank of the system.
The fact that you add alcohol into the system will of course stop the frost but also counteract water electrolyse, so you will have to settle from the beginning the gas production of your system. Unless if you are the happy owners of a PWM (Pulse Width Modulator).
When the winter and the frost is over you have to drain and rinse the system and to fill the tank with distilled water and electrolyte.
Ok guys ? You now are ready for the winter (are there some girls as well? )
Now I will give you some advice if you don’t want to use isopropyl alcohol :
You have to install ammeter in passenger cell, it will help you notice any kind of anomaly.
You have to install button switch in passenger cell, it will let you stop your installation when it is frozen and activate again when the engine will reheat it.
During the night put your car in the garage.
Protect your generator with insulating materials.
Activate your engine 15 or even 30 min before going, without running the HHO Cell
That’s it folks, I really advise you to use isopropyl alcohol (I live in a “Wolf Country” where the temperatures are as low as – 40 °C during winter so I know what I am talking about..) this solution will not create you any problems & will permit you to continue to save money & take care of your planet during the winter.
And it is a great opportunity to drain your system at least once a year….
This article talks about how to connect Mason Jar type HHO Cells
If you want to connect 2 or more Dry Cells, or any HHO cell using plates as electrodes, this article is not for you, refer to this article : How to connect HHO Cells parallelor refer to the manual that came with your Dry Cell.
For your information, Dry Cells are to be connected in parallel rather than serie : + on + & – on – …. Easy as your ABC !
Ok, that being said, let’s talk about how to connect Mason Jar type cells :
First a few tips to remember:
* Remember that the amperage in “hot” conditions from your HHO Cell is higher than the one in cold :
If you measure the amperage cold, one must imagine that when your HHO generator will have been running half an hour or more, it will be hotter and amperage will have increased considerably, often around 50%!. That is to say : if you have 4 amps cold, you’ll have about 6 hot …. Quite important if you don’t want water to boil….
* Do not exceed 4 amps/cell current consumption for Mason Jar type HHO Cell. Tresspassing this is a potential overheating risk that could damage the cell and possibly your engine. If you own a different HHO Cell (ie dry cell ) carefully follow the manufacturer’s instructions about it.
* Always prefer low amps soluce. One should always prefer an installation with two cells’ pulling 4 amps total (2/Cell ) rather than 1 single cell drawing 4 amps, your installation will run with a lower temp, and your electrodes life will be significantly longer
* When you add the electrolyte:
1 Always add small quantity, preferably ½ teaspoon.
2 Check amps with an ammeter to make sure not to exceed 4 amps per cell
3 Always use the manufacturer’s recommended electrolyte for your cell
4 Newbies are very often using baking soda as an electrolyte, great way to learn ! But compensation is to drain and replace your water / electrolyte every 1000 to 3000 km. The more amps, the more often you’ll have to change (1000 km) your mix. See here other electrolytes you can use
* Remember always that using HHO gas, you became a pioneer in fuel burn, bravo! The planet and your wallet are thanking you!
But BEWARE, that also means you are left to yourself, industrialization policy has not yet been through this, you are in an area with no rules and no established laws. Therefore caution be preferred in any circumstance
* Remind yourself that the HHO gas is highly flammable and electrolysis that involves chemical reactions. So unless you’re a chemist High flying: Do not play the little budding chemist!
According to users testimony, connecting in series reduces the voltage and, again according to users testimony, thereby reduce the heating of water & eventual steaming. It’s a safer way to run your HHO Car
However be aware that : a series circuit will reduce the overall amperage consistently, you’ll be forced to double or triple the dose of bicarbonate or other electrolyte you use.Try to remember if you switch back to a single cell or a parallel connection…. Otherwise it could seriously boil in there!
You should also know: the series circuit by 3 or more HHO Cells is not recommended and you’ll notice right away yourself that this is not a good idea, Because the amperage decreases so much that it goes on almost nothing! So always 2 or 2X2 or 3X2, as in the picture.
If you have 3 cells to connect, you will of course find difficult to mount them in pairs … .. And a 3 Series, as stated above, it is not profitable. You can then opt for a parallel connection, it poses no problem when being reasonable on each cell amperage (3 to 3.5 amps when cold ) . Nothing more simple than a parallel connection: + on + & – on – ….. I’ll make you a drawing when I have time, or a small video!
- The advantage of parallel connection is that you do not increase the electrolyte dose, if you have 3 cells that draw 3 amps each, mounted in parallel will consume …? Won! 9 Amps in full. We have seen that the calculation is not as simple with a serial connection.
- The disadvantage is that you keep a voltage of 12 volts in each cell, which predisposes you to more easily overheat when overdosing electrolyte.
So to summarize : it is better to avoid odd numbers of Mason Jar HHO cells. And if you need more than 2 or 3 cells of this type, you may consider to opt for a Dry Cell, which takes less space and cost not much more than 3 or 4 jars.
Let’s continue on:
Start by finding a place and fix your additional cells next to your first cell. Then two things are to be changed : the electrical connection and vacuum system.
Nessecary stuff is usually supplied with the first cell and the additional cell.
On the “old” cell, disconnect the cable from the black terminal (ground) and reconnect it to the black terminal of the new cell.
Then connect the small red ( or whatever ) cable link supplied with the additional cell: one end to the black terminal of your first cell, and the other end on the red terminal of the new cell.
You just plug in your cells “in series”. 6 volts are now distributed to each cell.
Use the T fittings supplied with your first cell and/or with additional cells for connecting all your cells.
If you install more than 2 additional cells it will be necessary to use a manifold …………………. to connect all cells together and then directs the HHO gas to the engine’s air intake.
Always keep check valve between the cells and engine. A single valve on the main hose is sufficient.
Where to find spare parts?
Listed below sites offer an interesting selection of parts, which can enable you to supplement or customize your installation.
One of the most frequently asked question by a HHO Cell user !
How much HHO gas do I need to produce to save as much as possible gas?
Another one : Is there an ideal HHO Gas quantity ??
Another great one : Do I need to produce as much gas as possible?
There are still no clear answers to these questions, the HHO does not earn enough money, so …. no industrial and no official agency is interested in this case study, so no scientific data, we are left to ourselves, and after all, the better, because the day a politician will stick his nose in there, it will be as usual : We’ll be f….d ! ( forwarded ? Freaked ? … ? )
But we can still tell you what to do to optimize your HHO gas production and achieve maximum savings, ie, a “nickel chromium” setting can save you up to 50% fuel !
So let’s go :
Well, before we go, here is an indication :
All HHO cell users with little experience, whether in the United States or Europe agree that the ideal gas production per minute is between 1/4 and 1/2 of the cylinders volume of your future HHO car. For example if your engine is 2 liter, it takes 0.5 to 1 liter per minute HHO gas output to get significant savings
My advice :
I sincerely believe that the truth is quite close to 1/2 Ok, so let’s go this time !
Many believe that the more you produce gas the more you realize fuel economy, they often think that electricity needed for electrolysis of water is somehow “free” since in any case, the motor turns… Both assertions are false!
When the engine is running, and there is a need for electricity, it transmits its energy through a belt to the alternator, which then produces the electricity. This electricity is in fact a measurable rotation brake of the engine, so it causes excessive fuel consumption to fight against the resistance of the alternator. If for example you’re going downhil, you should re-accelerate earlier at the bottom of the descent to maintain your speed. The electrical energy produced by the alternator cost you fuel.
Now look at the HHO gas side. When we burn it, it returns less energy than the energy expended to create it … More, there are several energy conversions involved, as there is no 100% possible efficiency, energy is lost during each conversion.
The conversions are: mechanical to electrical (generator), electrical to chemical (electrolysis), chemical to mechanical (burning the HHO). Finally, once HHO gas burned, you will not be returned more than 20-25% of the energy used to create it…..
But do not despair immediately, the fuel savings are still achievable with this energy!
HHO benefit is not realized because it substitute to your regular fuel, but because it optimizes the combustion of fuel.
Our exhaust are filled with unused particles, there is an enormous amount of energy unused, and the HHO gas simply allows us to “recover” a part of this raging waste. And a small part of a huge amount, is very interesting. My banker told me that long ago ! This makes the HHO precious.
Nevertheless there is a limit, an optimum amount of gas which, if you trespass, begin to increase your consomption again. At this moment the energy consumed to produce the HHO is greater than what is restituted when optimizing your air/fuel mix combustion.
Currently the only way to know the volume of gas you need is the method “test – errors” :
At each refueling, gradually increase your gas production.
# 1 With bicarbonate, or whatever electrolyte you use, addition in your HHO Cell tank, giving yourself a 50-60 °C temp limit ( 60 is pretty high ) of the water in your generator after a continuous 15-30 minutes work. When the weather is hot this limit will prevent you from reaching too high a temperature that can damage the generator and/or cause the water suction in your engine.
# 2 Or, if you’ve already reached the temp limit, adding a cell to produce additional gas … .. You just change the configuration of your system, meaning that ie, in the Mason Jar HHO Cell configuration you now have 2 cells connected in serie, using 6 volts each, instead of 1 cell with 12 volts. You should know that electrolysis does need no more than 2 volts, so in a single cell device, 10 volts are “lost” and only produce heat & steam. For plates electrodes it’s a bit different, you must refer to your owner manual when connecting 2 cells.
Then If you want to restart at the same gas production level, repeat the above described, knowing still that: a series connection will reduce the overall amperage consistently, you’ll be forced to double or triple the quantity of bicarbonate or other electrolyte you use . Try to remember what you’ve done if you switch back to a single cell or a parallel connection. … Otherwise it could seriously boil in there!
You should also know that the 3 or more series circuit is not recommended and you’ll notice right away yourself that this is not a good idea, because the amperage decreases so that it finally turns to almost nothing! In a Mason Jar system you even can ad as much as electrolyte you want in a 3 serie circuit, you’ll never bypass a total 5-7 amps for your install ! This is due to wide space between electrodes + reduced ( compared to plates ) electrode surface
Personally I opted for a parallel connection for my 3 set Mason Jar system, keeping reasonable amperage of each cell (3 to 3.5 amp when cold ) it poses no problem.
That being said, an ammeter is the best way to measure and store the right amount of baking soda, in all FIGS cases.
Well, whatever HHO cell you use, at some point you’ll reach your fuel economy peak (without knowing it ) and when you add electrolyte again, your fuel savings will begin to diminish, you know now that the previous dosage was the best one ! Just need to drain your HHO generator and fill again with water/electrolyte ideal mixing or mess up with taking of some mix, replace with water, mesure amps, and repeat until you’ve reached the desired value.
To help you:
- 3 to 4 flat teaspoons and/or 4 amps for a basic HHO cell (used alone or in parallel) ie,WalkingEagleSolution or GreenTechexpress, represents a not to cross boundary.
- 1 teaspoon of baking soda in a Mason Jar HHO cell type (used alone or in parallel) generates a consumption of about 1 amps and gas production of 0.1 liter/minute
Add the bicarbonate or a ½ teaspoon after each refueling, always use the same spoon to always add the same amount, or if you get one a digital scale. You can find very affordable scales on amazon
I hope this article will help you optimize your settings. All this may seem a bit complicated, but it’s worth it. Feel free to leave a comment and tell us how all this is running for you !
Which electrolyte will you choose for your HHO Cell ?
Not so easy to answer especially when you’re a newbie !
We have listed here some frequently used electrolytes , but before selecting one from the list, because you think “this one is good for me”, first read the following lines, it can save you a lot of trouble! Quick tips to remember:
1) Always remember that electrolysis causes chemical reactions and unless you’re a great chemist, abstain yourself to “invent” your personal recipes.
Do you know for example that if you use salt as electrolyte, it will release chlorine during the electrolysis? And if your engine block includes aluminum parts …. He will not like it at all!
And salt is one example among many others.
2) Preferably, use the electrolyte recommended by the manufacturer of your generator. Some electrolytes are not recommended in certain types of hho cells. Such as baking soda in dry cells. Not that this is dangerous, but the good old baking soda causes lot of oxidation, which generated very quickly, and forces you to completely dismantle your dry cell for cleaning … Not cool!
3) If possible & depending on the HHO Cell type you own, start with an electrolyte safe to handle, such as baking soda or other listed below as safe.
It will help you get acquainted with the electrolysis, and to test different settings safely.
4) HHO Cell are a good deal for nobody except you and me … … result = no industrial or official corps are interested in, so there is a lack of scientific data and unless being chemist oneself, it’s difficult to know, for example, what happens as chemical reactions in the bath. So when you drain your generator, get the liquid and discard you in your local rubbish dump marking on the can “electrolytic bath”
Almost safe ( see below ) Disadvantages:
Low gas production
Causes of oxidation
The various particles in water are congregating to the electrodes, and perturbate electrolysis
Beware of water containing chlorine! Electrolytic bath get “used” quickly
For Which HHO cell type:
Easily cleanable cells ….
Not the best !
______________________________________________________________________ B) White Vinegar (acetic acid)
Available at grocery store
The electrodes stay clean
Low gas production
Which type of HHO generator:
All but gas production will be nearly zero in a Mason Jar type HHO Cell type
Test pure, pour white vinegar directly without diluting it in “Plates” generators whether dry or wet cell. Do you get a sufficient output for your vehicle ? Bingo! Continue this way Dude ! White vinegar is one of the most eco-electrolytes !
______________________________________________________________________ C) sodium bicarbonate – Baking Soda – NaHCO3
Available at grocery store
Very good gas production
Significant and rapid oxidation, the water becomes brown
The electrolytic bath “wear out” quickly, we must change the bath every 1000 miles
Produces some CO2 and CO
Which type of HHO generator:
Only in a Mason Jar type HHO Cell , which you can drain and clean easily.
Not at all recommended for dry cells, unless you intend to spend your time disassembling and reassembling your cell ….
Very Nice for starters, and only in a Mason Jar type HHO Cell
______________________________________________________________________ D) Caustic Soda (Sodium Hydroxide – NaOH)
Yes, yes, it is indeed the blocked drain-pipe counter!
Available at grocery store
Very good gas production
Production of 95 – 100% pure HHO
The electrodes stay clean
Not too dangerous to handle (but still dangerous!)
Excellent gas production
Production of 95 – 100% pure HHO
The electrodes stay clean
Corrosive, handle with care
The dilution of KOH in water produces heat, and can even bring water to boil, this reaction takes place even if you already are using KOH in aqueous solution.
Can’t find it every where, the best source I’ve found is….. ebay! Just click here for direct linking : Potassium Hydroxyde ( KOH )
Too bad ! Your car is like brand new and is running on gas ! And you wanna install a HHO Cell under the hood ? You’ll have to drop down on your knees in front of your O2 sensors and pray for it to allow better mileage ! I know it’s sad as sad can be, but don’t cry babe, there is an awsome system that will handle all your car’s sensors, and please, with no settings on your part ! It’s a flash chip that is specially programmed for your véhicle, 4 wires to connect and you’re done…. Isn’t life beautiful ? Now just check if your car is on the data base here.
Volo Flash Chip for HHO Cell Users
It’s not ? Well you’ll have a little more to do but THERE IS an awsome and free resource about EFIE enhancers and other MAP or MAF sensors on MPG Fuel Savers. This site is giving away informations that any other site would charge for ! And be trustfull, these guys perfectly know what they’re talking about. The following text is general information, just to tell you that if your car is fuel injected and you don’t care about oxygen sensor when installing a HHO Cell, YOU WILL NOT experience fuel savings. Your car may be different from below described, but be sure there is a solution for it !
HHO Cell Digital EFIE
So, here we go, let’s understand why you need to dial with O2 sensor(s) :
Fuel Injected Vehicles Basics Fuel injected vehicles use a computer and sensing devices to sense and maintain the correct air/fuel ratio. One of the key sensing devices is the oxygen sensor. Fuel injected vehicles have one or more oxygen sensors installed in the exhaust stream. The computer extrapolates what the air/fuel ratio is based on the amount of oxygen in the exhaust, as reported by the oxygen sensor. When a fuel saving device is installed, such as a HHO Cell, the petroleum based fuel is burned more completely. One of the results of this is that there is more oxygen (and less unburned hydrocarbons) in the exhaust stream. This is a good thing, and is in fact, what we are trying to achieve. However, the computer will perceive this condition as a “too lean” air/fuel mix. In other words, what is now a desirable condition in the exhaust, will be interpreted as “not enough gas”, and the computer will direct the fuel injectors to increase the amount of gas being pumped into the engine ! The result is that the oxygen sensor and computer prevent efficient combustion from occurring! Too Bad! ( I told you… ) The Solution The oxygen sensor “tells” the computer what the oxygen content is by providing a voltage on it’s signal wire between 0 and 1 volt. 450 millivolts (.45 volts) means that the fuel/air mixture is correct. Higher values means the mix is rich (has too much gas), and lower voltages means the mix is lean. By adding voltage to the sensor’s output, we can compensate for the additional oxygen in the exhaust. The Electronic Fuel Injection Enhancer (EFIE) does exactly this. It adds a floating voltage to the top of whatever the oxygen sensor is putting out. It has an adjustment that allows you to control, to within a few millivolts, the amount of this added voltage. This allows the computer to be unaware of the additional oxygen content of the exhaust, and the electrolyzer can now achieve it’s full potential in fuel savings. Most cars have oxygen sensors both before and after the catalytic converter. The ones downstream from the converter do not need to be treated. Their data is used to determine when the converter has gone bad, but are not used in the air/fuel calculations. EFIEs are only needed for all upstream oxygen sensors. There are many different O2 sensors, so don’t buy a HHO Cell kit including a EFIE Enhancer or a EFIE Enhancer alone before you grab all informations on MPG Fuel Savers, it’s worth your time ! Ciao, ciao. Christian, Your Brother In HHO .
Yes, I know Man, I know…. Electrolysis is not profitable !
I mean energy expended to produce HHO gas with electrolysis, is superior to the energy produced when burning HHO …..
AND NO WAY ! THAT’S 100% TRUE !!!
So, can you tell me why HHO cells are so popular ? Why trucks owners are mounting these devices like crazy ? Why me and my HHOaddicts friends are getting 20, 30, 40, 50% increase in mileage using a HHO Cell ?
There is a very, very, simple reason, and here it is :
Don’t start to think about HHO as something that will fuel your engine, BECAUSE THIS IDEA IS 100% WRONG !!!
HHO will not replace a part of the gas or diesel you usually burn. It will simply optimizes the way it burns.
You must know that 70 to 80% of gas or diesel is lost during the combustion process in a car engine. Take 100 bucks, drop 80 by the window, that’s what is happening when you drive your car….
Turning your vehicle in a HHO car Hybrid by installing a HHO Cell under the hood, just permits you to waste less fuel. AND THERE IS NO NEED FOR ELECTROLYSIS TO BE PROFITABLE ! We just need some HHO to be there !
It’s that simple !
Installing a HHO Cell under your car’s hood, permits you to use a higher % of fuel.